On a trip to see my family in rural Downham Market, West Norfolk recently, I took a stroll around the town early one morning to stretch my legs after a long drive up the day before. On the edge of the Brecklands, you can get some stunning views across what used to be the Fens before they were drained. So I decided to take a walk up to the local church which sits more or less on the highest point in the town.
St Edmund's is about 4-5 storeys higher than the surrounding countryside, maybe more, and the views are incredible, as can be seen in the photo below. Well I say incredible, but maybe far reaching would be more apt.
On some days the church tower is open to the public and you can see another local town, March*, from there which 12 miles away near as damn it as the crow flies. So what does this have to do with wargaming you might reasonably ask?
Well whilst reading Normandy '44, church spires are oft mentioned as viewing points towards the landing beaches. So whilst in the church grounds I could not help but think of this and what a sight it must have been. Frightening I'm sure to see the array of materiel lined up against you, but mightily impressive for sure.
Naturally being on the edge of the Fens I could not help but think of Operation Market-Garden and the fact for much of the time, the Allies would be fighting over similar terrain, under the watchful gaze of the Germans. The raised roads around these parts are visible for miles around and any vehicles on them look like ducks lined up in a shooting gallery. Also you get great views over the fields and they make natural defensive barriers. A few miles away there is a crossing over the Great Ouse/Bedford River which is guarded by two brick pill boxes, some distance apart from each other. How mutually supporting they are is hard to tell whilst driving past. Maybe one day I'll stop and take a proper look.
* One of the streams for the Allied planes for Market-Garden flew over March and what a sight it must have been. IIRC it is mentioned in 'A Bridge Too Far' and features in the film where the congregation leaves the church that fateful morning.
Anyway, next post should possibly feature some PB&J content as I have been painting of late, plus some musings too. So until next time...
Interesting reflections Steve. Maybe the wetlands were why East Anglia was a strategic redoubt in the Civil War.
ReplyDeleteThe other link to the Market-Garden terrain is of course the Dutch. Dutch engineers helped drain the Fens and presumably why the South East Lincs ‘riding’ is called Holland.
Chris/Nundanket
The Fens had started to be drained before the ECW, but not sure how much land had been reclaimed etc. My family can trace back to Fen Drayton circa 1583, when it appears we were Dutch who came over to do said work. Lots of Dutch influence in the local architecture too. Where my Mum was born on the edge of the Fens at Earith, there is a small star fort that is clearly visible from the road. If only I'd known this when I was younger I would have explored it.
DeleteThose magnificent fen-edge churches are always impressive; sobering thoughts on Normandy and Arnhem. Didn't the Germans lop off the tops of many church towers to eliminate them as potential enemy lookouts?
DeleteIn fact the Romans and mediaevals had already done a lot of draining in the Fens - but they didn't have such good publicists as the Dutch! ;-) Oliver Rackham's wonderful The History of the Countryside has a fair bit to say about it... (plus much else about the British landscape and its history and ecology - it really is essential and very enjoyable reading. There is an illustrated version with good pictures too but it's a bit cut down from the earlier version).
Cheers,
David.
The Fen churches are lovely and their spires are visible for miles around. Then of course you have Ely cathedral which seems huge as it just dominates the surrounding landscape, despite being in the middle of the town. I've not heard of the Germans lopping off the tops of church towers before, but it makes sense.
DeleteI think the Dutch just excellerated the draining due to their experience, but as with all history, having good publicity helps! I've not hear of Rackham's book but it sounds the sort of thing that would interest me.
Beautiful country, Steve. PB&J and musings? I can hardly wait.
ReplyDeleteIt has its own stark beauty Jon, especially the endless skies. However it can be damned bleak and cold in the Winter as there is nothing to stop the Easterly winds blowing in all the way from Russia! The sunsets make up for it though on occasion.
DeleteHopefully the photos will come out OK and the musings to be of interest too.
The church looks like a typical piece of wargaming terrain! What is the metal basket of top of the pole? For a fire to call for aid? 😊
ReplyDeleteGreat views over the countryside and makes me itch to put out some similar terrain.
A church on a mound would be a nice to have for sure Ben and has got my mind mulling over ideas as I type! I like the idea of lighting a fire to call for aid, given that the fire station is just down the road! Looking where the beacon is and the views, it must have been visible for miles if lit for the recent jubilee.
DeleteI keep meaning to do a 'what if?' Operation Sealion over Fen terrain just for the fun of it, ditto Holland in '44. Ideally both would be part of a campaign but more realistically they would be one off games just to see the challenges involved.
How about something based on the Eagle Has Landed. That was based in the Fens wasn’t it?
DeleteChris/Nundanket
Good idea Chris, plus a chance to use my Fallschirmjager:).
DeleteWhat does this have to do with…oh, I see. 😀
ReplyDeleteIn all my WWII games there’s always a sniper or observer in the church tower. 😀
Good things come to those who wait Stew;). Most time my observer is in a building or on a hill, but I rarely use snipers due to the scale of the games I play.
DeleteEnjoyable read Steve. I'm glad I'm not the only to walk (or drive) and imagine how the terrain would be used by approaching armies. I see tree lines and consider how such would conceal a line of infantry. Nice reflective post.
ReplyDeleteThanks Richard and I'm glad that I'm in good company! I find I do this more now that I'm retired/full-time carer with more time to get outdoors than when I was working. This is certainly the case when visiting battlefield, such as our recent trip to Lansdown Hill.
DeleteRather silly I know, but when I was a youth every time I saw the place name Downham Market I couldn’t help but sing it to the tune of Chas & Dave’s “Down to Margate”… 😎😉
ReplyDeleteCheers,
Geoff
We still call it Down-at-Heel Market, as when my parents moved there it was mainly full or retirement bungalows and little else (also known as God's Waiting Room as a result). But recent developments on the housing front and direct trains to Cambridge and London have meant it has become a commuter town.
DeleteIt looks absolutley beautiful - it's so refreshing to get out into the quieter reaches of the country.
ReplyDeleteIt can be really beautiful there, but I've been in other parts of the Fens in Winter and by heck is it bleak! Certainly quiet though which is always nice.
DeleteA nice part of the world which I used to visit regularly.
ReplyDeleteThere are some lovely villages tucked away, but I think Suffolk is prettier, but many years since I've been there so hard to remember.
DeleteSteve, Jane and I loved Suffolk and Norfolk when we visited recently. On the wargaming point, I remember visiting Hill112 in Normandy many years ago. It seemed so insignificant driving up it, barely more than a broad rise in the terrain with no real summit, but up on the top you could see for miles, and appreciate it's significance as 'vital ground', as they say in the military.
ReplyDeleteIt's only when you get to see the terrain, such as our recent trip to Lansdown Hill, that you can appreciate why battles were fought where they were, how terrain affected movement etc.
Delete