Monday 8 August 2022

Walking With Royalty *

A few days ago, my wife and I took one of our favourite walks near to where we live, namely from Swineford, up to North Stoke and onto to Landsdown Hill, site of the famous English Civil War battle. We are very lucky to be so close to such wonderful countryside as well as so much history, from the Iron Age onwards. I'll cover more in other Blog posts, but for the moment I shall concentrate on this walk. So without further ado.

The view from the car park at the start of the walk. The small hill topped by trees just off centre at the top of the ridgeline is Kelston Round Hill. To me it always looks like the classic hill that young children draw. Only recently did I find out that the summit had a tumulus burial on top of it. Not a bad place to be buried.

The Lord of the Rings moment on the walk. This is an old and still legal road that runs down from North Stoke to Swineford and is an ancient trackway. It is the easiest route down from the village. Time and erosion has made it 12' deep or more in places.

Another view back down the trackway.

Old workers cottages in North Stoke. Some years ago one was being renovated and the decorators had come over from Switzerland. Let's just say that you need some serious money to be able to live there, or at least in these older buildings.

My wife on top of the steps leading to the parish church of St Martins. Normally to the right of the picture as spring from up the hill is constantly providing water to a cattle trough, but due to the exceptionally dry weather this year, it has dried up.

A view from the church steps to the main farmhouse, which has the most stunning views and a very nice garden too. Frankly the sort of house, garden and view I would love to have!

The church of St Martin, built on the site of a Roman temple.

A rather poor shot looking towards the original west entrance of the church. There has been much restoration from the 19thC onwards.

The original eastern end of the church can be seen by the archway.

Wall plaques marking the families involvement in India. Fascinating stuff for a chap like me.

More of the same.

Rather hard to read, even in the best of lights, but one family memeber died on the day War was declared on 3rd September 1939.

The baptisimal font was carved from an old sacrificial altar.

I found this very moving and poignant.

Fighting that Harry Patch attended the dedication. He lived for another year after this.

North Stoke is behind the treeline on the middle left. The track by the wall is part of the Monarch's Way, the route taken by Charles II after his defeat at the Battle of Worcester in 1651. The view is towards Bristol and not clear in the photo, but you can see the Black Mountains in Wales on most days.

Another view across towards the Severn Valley and beyond. 

A view towards the Mendips and Keynsham, but the latter cannot be easily seen. Over this hills in the middle distance came the Duke of Monmouth and his army. He got as far as Keynsham before turning back.

A stone marker at the end of the Parliamentarian left flank on Landsdown Hill, carved with a contemporary image. 


Information boards are dotted across the original line at the start of the battle.

A view towards where the Royalist troops, most particularly the Cornish one, attacked from. The terrain is rough and broken but the defending troops would not have seen them until almost the last minute and most likely would not have had too much time for more than a few shots before the attackers could have closed with them. 

The hill in the middle is one side of the saddle over which both sides cavalry fought a running battle before the main battle was joined.



Another nice marker stone.


Sir Beville Grenville's monument.

Sadly falling into disrepair in places. The monument is covered in graffiti, much of it from a long time ago, than can only be seen easily in centre light.


The info board from the final Parliamentarian position.

Another marker from the same place.

Looting was obviously part and parcel of battles and campaigns during this and many other wars.

A view from the Parliamentarian position and the clear and open ground that the Royalists would have had to have crossed at the end of the battle. I can see why they were reluctant.

The Parliamentarian soldiers lined the stone walls, which made a very strong defensive position. 

The rather beautiful valley that the Parliamentarian troops retreated down, unbeknownst to the Royalists.

You'll have to take my word for it, but the next field to the stone marker and there are the remains of an iron age settlement, which can just be seen if you look carefully enough. In this photo, there is a small ridge running on the left side of the image to the middle of the trees at the top. For much better photos and information, see the following:

https://www.bacas.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Lansdown-Little-Down-Field.pdf


* The reason I chose this title is for no other reason than walking part of the Monarch's Way and the fact that my wife is a Princess. Sadly this does not make me a Prince, but just a commoner!

We are certainly spoilt for choices of places to go round these parts, but I hope to visit a few more places that might be of interest from a gaming  and history perspective. At present we are entering yet another heatwave where it will be too hot to paint (currently forecast to be 34C on Thursday!) or to much else to be honest. As always plenty of plans but for once the glorious weather rather than lethargy on my part of putting pay to any progress.

At least I feel over Covid now and am trying to build up my stamina again for bike rides, but am not overdoing it, as I don't want to regress having come this far. So until next time keep healthy and stay safe.


33 comments:

  1. Sounds like a real nice walk among a lot of history. Glad you are feeling so well after your brush with the virus. Regards.

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    1. It is a lovely walk Tony and the views when on the Cotswold edge are to die for. Frankly it is hard to capture them with a simple point and shoot camera. Add in some interesting history and you certainly have a nice day out.

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  2. I’m stunned ….. you haven’t got an English Civil War army! 😃

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    1. I do have a small one, that I started for 'The Pikemen's Lament' rules, but as is the way, didn't finish them. I now have two armies for a sort of Monmouth Rebellion (hard not to with the local history) cum Battle of the Boyne. Naturally they are still in their bags. Oh the shame of it!

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  3. Thanks for posting these images, Steve - nice to see a few other bloggers doing likewise, as the UK summer holiday season progresses. My favourite pics are probably the two of the ancient roadway - fantastic!

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    1. I always like to see where people live, their bits of local history etc. Your walks in NZ are always a joy to behold. I too love the ancient roadway as it is very atmospheric. As mentioned above, the views from the ridge are superb, but hard to do justice with my camera.

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  4. Not that far from me. To my eternal shame, Roundway was on my commute to Swindon and in 3 years I never stopped to look. Regularly drove past Landsdown without stopping, either. Familiarity breeds contempt!

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    1. So easy with our hectic lifestyles to just drive on by these places. Being able to take in a nice walk does make it more appealing to visit them etc. Very rewarding when you do find the time, especially when thinking of the battle such as this one and how the troops moved, how the terrain funnelled them etc.

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  5. I hope you both enjoyed your walk in the countryside Steve. At least you did “proper” photographs and not these selfies.
    I must admit, when it is hot and/or sunny, I do like to try to keep in the shade. I’m pretty sure both our dogs agree too.
    Glad to hear you’re “on the mend”.
    Take care & keep safe,
    Geoff

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    1. It is a walk that we always enjoy and for once, it has not been too busy, given that it forms part of the Monarch's and Cotswold Ways. I'm rather like a moth to a flame when the sun is out and always have been, although the current hot spells are more tiring now that I'm closing in on my 60th year (which makes for salutory reading!).

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  6. It was nice to see the photos of the battlefield - I have been there but a long while ago and it has faded from memory. But score me one for having a big ECW army - all shiny, retro and mainly Hinchliffe.

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    1. One day I might walk it at my leisure with some maps of the action to hand, so that I can relate the topography to deployments, movement etc. I still wonder how the Royalists moved their artillery forward given the very, very steep hill that the only road to the battlefiled goes up. Well done on having an ECW army, with bonus marks for retro and shiny:).

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  7. I came here for miniatures and all I got were pretty pictures of amazing scenery and location envy. 😀

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    1. Sorry to disappoint Stew;). One day my Blog will have a 'Look at what I painted' post and one that isn't down to DIY on the house!

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  8. Fabulous post Steve. I'm another one with location envy. The views show what an important location it was strategically. It all makes sense seeing them! And the picture of the Parliamentarian view of the convex slope showing how they couldn't have seen the Royalists until the last minute is very, very instructive. Got me thinking of dusting off my ECW chaps for another bash at Lansdown, with the scenario tweaked accordingly.
    Thanks for sharing your photos!

    Chris

    PS, I could tell the people in that old cottage were wealthy - I mean who else can afford to bring workers from Switzerland! Practically the most expensive labour in Europe, if not the world. 😄

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    1. Thanks Chris. If you click on the attempted link in the last photo, you can see that there are many remains of settlements all across this area. As the road is one of the main ones running North from bath, you can see why it was strategically important. Afterall there are three hill forts all fairly close to each other. It reminds me of reading some of the SYW and APW battles, that were fought in the ssame areas for the same reasons: there are only so many passes, river crossing in Silesia etc that you can use.

      I did have a double take when I saw the Swiss decorators all those years ago. Some people have more money than sense!

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  9. Beautiful country, Steve, and a wonderful outing (for all of us!). Thanks for presenting your inspirational walk. How many Lansdown battles will we see on the table following such excellent stroll. Hard to believe that the sunken lane was not originally a railroad cut.

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    1. Thanks Jon and it is indeed beautiful around here, especially with the incredibly sunny weather this Summer. We're not used to having almost Mediterranean weather and skies! I imagine they may have deepened the road in places to make it more level, as as you walk, you can see that the fields either side and not as level as the road itself. Now I'm thinking of the railway cut at Gettysburg and how the troops must have felt stuck in there, as in places you could not scale the sides from this track.

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  10. Thanks very much, Steve; a great walk with splendid pictures. I've not seen Lansdown for many years and that was only a hasty visit on the way back from Bath. The Grenville monument was supposedly going to be restored then (this is around 1978) but it seems is still in need of it.

    Glad to hear you are feeling rather better.

    Your post will help inspire me to get my ECW Paperboys' armies in production! (The 15mm ECW armies I bought back in January 1985 will never be painted at this rate, I think...) I hope you manage some more walks and are able to delight us with reports on them; you are lucky to live in such an attractive and historic area.

    Cheers,

    David.

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    1. Thanks David and glad you enjoyed the photos. I think we will be hard pushed to beat this walk for history and views in our locale, but something we can aim to beat for sure! We are indeed lucky where we live.

      Good luck with the 15mm figures or the Paperboys 'figures' getting them into production. I started on some 10mm ones for skirmish games and then the butterfly flapped its wings and well, you know the rest;).

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    2. Thanks, Steve. Look forward to whatever walk you find to post next; I'm sure it will be interesting and well illustrated. :-)

      Oh yes, I do know what you mean about distractions. I keep bouncing between Peninsular War, AWI, WSS, SYW and the ECW, which is why none of them is even part way done yet! I pick up a book on one of the periods (or even see a blog post) and away I go, carried away by enthusiasm until I pick up another book on a different period... (Various flavours of mediaevals also get in the way of completing any of the above!) Ah well. Too many fascinating wargame periods, that's the problem.

      Cheers,

      David.

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    3. This all sounds terribly familiar and is one reason that I have gone down the Imagi-Nations route, so I can game the 18thC with two armies for example. It works for me but is of course not for everyone. As mentioned before, this is something I would not do for WWII, but for all other periods I'm quite happt to.

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    4. Yes, I do like the ImagiNations approach. That's how my blog started, back in 2007, with uniform templates for people doing ImagiNations posts on their blogs! I'd like to revive my Tippelbruder ImagiNation at some point. My 18th century armies will be quite a mix but I shall use them together, ImagiNations style; the French are mostly WSS, the British WAS with some WSS, the Prussians, Russians and Austrians all SYW. As I shall be playing solo or via Zoom, I'm perfectly happy with that. :-)

      Cheers,
      David.

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    5. Sounds good to me David. Now I'm thinking of getting a small French force from the Pendraken WSS range for something just a bit different to the other troops!

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  11. :-) Sounds like a slippery slope, possibly! ;-) How small will small be, do you think? I confess I always end up wanting something ridiculously large for fighting all the really big battles, even though I know I will probably never do it...

    Cheers,David.

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    1. I was thinking of only a couple of battalions, with some artillery and maybe a unit of horse, but all too easy for it to snowball out of control! First I need to reacquaint myself with exactly what I have in terms of troops scattered in bags across the house. Too hot to venture into the attic cum oven at present...

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    2. :-) Yes, it is "batten down the hatches and wait for the heat to go" time, isn't it? I really hate this weather; the humidity at night is so oppressive.

      Cheers,
      David.

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  12. Splendid looking countryside and history to boot. With my increased leisure time im off to check out the walks you have flagged Steve I might be putting them on the list 👍

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    1. I really should do more local walks as we have so much history in this part of the UK. Currently far, far too hot though, but next week we hope to get out again. If you're ever in this neck of the woods, let me know and we'll see if we can meet up.

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  13. Thanks for sharing your walk and beautiful countryside with us. Loved the history and tolkienesque road.

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    1. You're welcome Richard and glad you enjoyed the post:).

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  14. Lovely photos, the sunken road is great as are the markers, really nicely done, I should finish off my ECW troops, really just artillery, clubmen and some additional dragoons ( that I don't really need?!) But must stick to my Napoleonic project, game at Christmas, deferred gratification etc!
    Bedt Iain

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    1. The markers are a nice touch with contemporary images engraved upon them. Dragoons are an absolute must for the ECW IMHO, being a jack of all trades type unit. But given your deadline of Xmas, best to focus on Nappies then finish these off in the New Year.

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