Tuesday, 25 August 2026

There And Back Again

After a recent wonderful holiday in Upper Austria, I thought I'd share some images and thoughts that might be of interest to us as wargamers. 

Vyssi Brod Monastery
This monastery is located just across the Czech border, right on the banks of the Moldau. A bit more info can be found about it here. What struck me was that the Cistercian monasterys are enclosed be very thick walls, making them very strong defensive positions. Secondly was the exterior painted decoration, something that we came to see an awful lot of on our trips out and about.

All the buildings are in the process of restoration, which is taking time as this is still a fully functioning monastery. Post WWII neglect has taken its toll on the buildings as can be seen here.

The restored decoration on the inside of the main entrance, which feel like passing through as castle gateway.

Painted decoration around windows and indeed 'fake' ones are quite common.

Freistadt
A delightful old town that we'd visited before, but one that is remarkable well preserved and, once again, more details can be found here. So many old buildings to enjoy, as well as much of the original defensive walls, towers etc.


The entrance to the Schloss.

A very tall tower that is really hard to get in one shot!

The inner courtyard of the Schloss.

The hauptplatz and the town church. Many of the churches we saw had very decorative tops to them, as in this one.

Painted decoration once again.

Almost every other building had a niche containing and image of Christ or some other Saint, the Virgin Mary etc.

The WWI War Memorial at the church. The plaques top left and right contain the names of the fallen as well, which is quite sobering when you see so many names in one place.

Floral decorations are a constant, with more painted decoration on view.

The old blacksmith's shop on the right, leading to a defensive tower.

Said tower and the small walkway over the dry moat.

A view of the moat, which I think may have been a dry one, as there is only a small stream running nearby the walls.

The inside view of the Bohemian Gate, one of the two main entrances to the town.

The outside view of the Bohemian Gate.

The inside view leading to the Linz Gate.

The outside view of the Linz Gate. Quite a difference in the style and structure of the two gates.

Some of the original walls and the semi-circular tower on the left is for the City Militia, that have a rather cool uniform.

A view of the bridge into the town.

Kefermarkt
We visited so many churches whilst out and about, with all of them having fabulous interiors and, compared to Britain, all being open! This is just one that I was amazed by as, given part of my career involved working with wood, I just stoof in awe of the craftsmenship on display in this altarpiece.


All the main figures are life sized and made by one unknown local craftsman.

Linz
A rarely visited city in Austria, but one that we love as it's so un-touristy, but full of lovely architecture, cafe's, restaurants etc and a great base to explore.

A large model of Linz c.1800, with the Schloss bottom right and the Danube bottom left.

The small bridge leading to the Hauptplatz.

Nice to see how the City's defences were still in existense then and how they were laid out. 

A model of the Pferdebahn, which was a horse drawn railway which ran from Budwies in the Czech Republic, through Freistadt, Linz and ending up in Gmunden.

Loads including beer, salt and people. Part of this ran very close to where we stayed with friends and much of it is still walkable.

A nice display of how a rifle was made.

From memory this was from c. 1895.

A photo of the substantial farm buildings you see everywhere you go. Made from brick or stone and then plastered, if they had the money. One wing was for the family, the other three for animals, hay or whatever wine or juice they were making, depedent upon which area they were located in.

The very wide variety of the traditional costumes right across Austria.

The War Memorial in Linz. Interesting to note it includes action from the SYW, Napoleonic Wars and others.



Another memorial on the City Church, listing those lost in 1848 & 1849.

1859, 1864, 1866 & 1882.




So that's it. A small selection as frankly most of the time I was just enjoying being out and about in beautiful countryside, towns and villages. The trouble was I kept thinking that this terrain is simply impassable or not suitable for military operations, even for Grenzers, or this has good space and room to manouevre etc! You can begin to appreciate this especially as you move into Bohemia or South of the Danube, where to former is more tricky to move in, the latter much, much easier.

What Next?
Still getting back into the swing of things here and with the schools back next week, things should start to pick up on the gaming front. But some rough thoughts as follows:
  • Colours wargames show is in the diary.
  • Finish off the last action of my Greco-Italian 1940 mini-campaign.
  • Make an enclosed farmhouse inspired by the one show above, as it would make a very tough defensive position to game over. I fancy a monastery too, for similar reasons
  • To make an Italian hill town, something that I've been wanting to do for years. 
  • Maybe to make a small corner piece with defensive walls, representing a larger area of a town, purely for visual effect.

I thinks that's it for now and maybe some of the above might have been of interest to you. As always thanks for reading and any comments greatly appreciated!

TTFN.

35 comments:

  1. Was it von Moltke who couldn't travel without looking at the military possibilities of the terrain? Must have rubbed off on you. I found this post particularly interesting as I have visited Austria often but never go to Upper Austria. I was wondering if you were on a self-drive holiday but have just noticed that you stayed with friends. I must look into the possibility of visiting LInz - it sounds relaxing.

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    1. Not sure, but I remember Robert Graves not being able to go for a walk post WWI without thinking about fields of fire for machine guns etc for many a year.

      We are lucky in that our Austrian friend has lived in Linz for nigh on 30 years now, so knows all the good places to go to visit, for walks and where to eat etc. Barely any tourists so you never have to rush to get somewhere to beat the crowds. Hope you get to go there sometime as it is stunning IMHO. Sadly Ryanair will no longer fly direct to Linz from October this year:(.

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  2. Excellent travelogue of your travels in Austria. This is a part of Austrian that I have yet to visit. I am not surprised that some of these farmhouses inspire you to build something similar. Welcome back!

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    1. Thanks Jon and there's so much we saw, but I didn't take photos of, as I was just enjoying the views etc! Those farmhouses are great, very spacious inside but can be a bit gloomy in Winter. Great defensive positions though!

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  3. What a beautiful looking area Steve. Unfortunately, I have never visited Austria and am unlikely to do so now, I imagine. I am always slightly surprised that so many of these old towns still exist in so many parts of Europe - I wonder how they survived the attentions of the RAF, USAAF or the Red Army!

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    1. It is stunning Keith and we love the Muhlviertel, which is the main area we visited, that runs up to and possibly into Bohemia itself. A Lottery win and I know where I'd want to live!

      I'm not sure how much Linz was bombed, given its chemical plant on the Danube courtesy of Goring as a 'present' to Hitler, given he wanted to retire to Linz and its environs. I know Urfahr, the Northen part of Linz in the Red Army zone of control had, all of its industrial equipment stripped and sent back to the Soviet Union.

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  4. Fascinating photos, thanks so much for sharing them.
    Alan Tradgardland

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  5. Btw do look up this chap if you are interested in woodworking-
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tilman_Riemenschneider
    Absolutely marvellous!

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    1. Superb work as you rightly say! The altar at Kefermarkt is from the Counter-Reformation period and possibly made around the early 18thC, so a slightly different style. But this area of Northern Austria and Southern Germany we renowned for its artists, wood carbers, plaster sculptors erc, all of which a easy to see in the magnificent churches, abbeys etc.

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  6. Beautiful place and great photos sir!

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  7. And this-
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nFqCrULwhD4
    Alan Tradgardland

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    1. I remember seeing this and being blown away by the quality of the work!

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  8. Hi Steve,

    Welcome back! What a grand selection of photos and terrain ideas—you can't beat seeing original fortifications, gates, and regional architecture in the flesh.

    All the best, Andy

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    1. Thanks Andy and yes, seeing these 'in the flesh' so to speak is so good, sparking plenty of ideas for projects etc:)!

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  9. Like others, I enjoyed the travelogue and all the modelling and gaming possibilities. I love the little twists and turns and archways withing the towns.
    Stephen

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    1. Thanks Stephen:)! We love just strolling around the AlteStadt of Linz, as you discover so much each time you turn a street, get a glimpse into a courtyard (especially true in Freistadt) or stumble upon a view. Priceless:).

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  10. Steve, not sure why I am anonymous! (Norm) anyway, nice atmospheric shots, good lighting, looks like you were spared the blistering heat.

    Good that they are about to inspire a building frenzy :-) My fave Battlescale do some good models for complex type buildings in 10mm, so I assume that they are repeated in their 6mm range (I think Pendraken still do them).

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    1. It was hot there, into the mid-30's at one point, but not too unbearable after the first few days. No rush to do anything there which is nice!

      I've ordered some buildings from Battlescale, mainly some of the old Leven Miniatures ones as they fit in with my existing buildings. The Battlescale ones are a tad bigger, but full of character and paint up well. More on this when they arrive.

      As for Blogger; well I've given up trying to find any rhyme or reason to the issues:(.

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  11. Thanks for sharing your pictures and thoughts from your holiday Steve. Lots of inspiration for the modeller and wargamer. Interesting how the fortifications on the Linz model are mostly ‘old school’ (ie pre-17th C). Just shows how the fully ‘Vaubanised’ enceinte is not universal for largish cities.
    On my last trip to Austria I noticed how flat the land was outside Vienna. The Marchfeld perhaps?
    Chris/Nundanket

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    1. Certainly lots to inspire one for sure Chris! I did notice straight away the complete lack of Vauban 'upgrades' to the defences. Not sure why, but maybe the conflicts never really threatened this area? There was a battle effectively on the area we stayed during the 1809 campaign, which I didn't know about before:

      https://www.historyofwar.org/articles/battles_linz.html

      Certainly the land to the South of the river is flat as a pancake, which the Austrians call the Pannonian Plain IIRC. This leads towards what we would call the Hungarian Plain, but essentially it is the same thing. On a previous visit I only realised at the last minute we were driving across the Wagram battlefield, having spotted a signpost on the road!

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  12. Great stuff Steve. Gotta love those central European vibes!

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    1. Thanks Keith and quite frankly I could happily live there for the rest of my natural, as it's so lovely:)!

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  13. Nice batch of photos Steve and plenty of inspiration for buildings!

    I recall passing through Linz on a trip in 1988, but only a brief lunch stop enroute to elsewhere.

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    1. Thanks Mark and there is so much to see and to inspire one, from the variety of pastel colours on the buildings through to the 'sunburst' door decoration on so many farm buildings.

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  14. Thanks for the tour, Steve. Some splendid towns and buildings; not much here in the Midlands to match them! The Central Europeans do seem to have preserved much of their traditional architecture; I wish we had done more to preserve ours. It is interesting to see that where, for instance, German old town centres were destroyed in the war they tried to rebuild them as faithfully as possible. In this country we tended to build horrors like the Coventry Precinct instead!

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    1. Even the smallest village-cum-town seems to have preserved its central square, with cafes etc around it, so all very lovely in the evening. My friend always said the post-War architects and town planners did more damage than the Luftwaffe:(!

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    2. Indeed! Coventry is very much a case in point. J B Priestley said in the 1930s that Coventry was a wonderful timber-framed mediaeval town still but in the late 1930s the council destroyed the heart of it with a new road that obliterated the finest mediaeval streets. The Luftwaffe raid in 1941 certainly did not help! But between 1945 and 1965 the planners destroyed at least 50% of the listed buildings in Coventry; there was still much left until then. Today you have to search around for the scattered and fragmentary remains of mediaeval Coventry. When I was a boy growing up in Hull in the 1960s and early 1970s the council were intentionally letting 14th century timber-framed buildings rot so they could condemn them and pull them down to "develop" the sites...

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    3. Very similar here in Bristol David, where a Luftwaffe raid destroyed a whole medieval streeted area by the castle (remains), never to be rebuilt. The local museum contains a few bits of old medieval doors, arches etc that managed to be saved as stuff was torn down for bland, boring shopping centres. Hardly the sort of stuff to attract tourists compared to most of Europe...

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    4. Yes, Bristol was a fine old city once, wasn't it? So true of so many British towns and cities pre-war. Is it being cynical to feel that planners and politicians rather welcomed the visits of the Luftwaffe, as it cleared the way for all those post-war boring and bland shopping centres without the need for legislation that would probably have upset the inhabitants?

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  15. Very interesting read and pore through the pictures, really enjoyable.

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  16. Lovely travelouge, lots of inspirational pictures as I have a couple of walled Austrian farm buildings on the go for the1809 campaign, the Italian hill town sounds great too!
    Best Iain

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    1. Well I look forward to seeing your farm buildings when they're completed Iain:)! Whilst the houses are often pastel colours in town, the enclosed farms we saw are just white washed plaster (if they could afford it), or large granite stones mortared together and left exposed (poorer farms) or hand made red brick if South of the Danube. Many had a niche for a statue of the Virgin Mary or such like, or painted Bibilical sayings across the main doors, or both.

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