Wednesday, 27 August 2025

The Wombles & Wargaming

A somewhat tenous link in the title with The Wombles and wargaming, but all will become clearer soon I hope! Well, we have recently spent a wonderful week on the outskirts of Nantes, visiting our daughter and son-in-law, our first holiday since 2019 and the first with just us. 

The Vendee
In advance, our daughter asked if there was anything I would like to see, and aside from the usual castles and art galleries, I wondered if there was a museum dedicated to the Vendee Uprising 1793-1794, given we would be very close to the Vendee itself. Luckily for me there was a general museum on the Vendee, but one that had a superb section on the Uprising itself. Happy Days! Sadly photos were not allowed inside, but I did pick up the following book for about 4 Euros, so an absolute bargain.



Now a good few years ago I did buy a bunch of figures with the aim of gaming this Uprising, alongside a good book on it, but one that is sadly a rather dull read. But having been to the musem and driven around the area, the spark was re-kindled and this paused project might see the light of day once again. 

So onto the tenous link mentioned above. We drove past a sign to Cholet, which was the place of one of the major battles of the Uprising. I mentioned in passing that one of the Wombles was named Madame Cholet and it turns out that she was in fact named after the town. The icing on the cake so to speak was the fact that our son-in-law was born and lived in Cholet!

Clisson
We took a visit to the town Clisson on what proved to be a very hot day (35C), but didn't feel too hot to us due to a nice breeze and the lower humidity compared to Bristol. However there was an orange heat alert out, which meant that the castle was closed to visitors. Our son-in-law joked that the French take any excuse to have a day off! A real shame as the outside looked fantastic. 

The medieval bridge leading to the heart of Clisson.

The town was destroyed after the Vendee Uprising and rebuilt in the Italian style, based upon the Domaine de La Garenne Lemot the other side of the river.

An idea of how high the walls and tower are from near river level.

The imposing gatehouse and drawbridge, as would have been.

The other side of the castle and I just love that tree!


Another entrance from the town side and high above the river.

Very impressive I must admit and bought from the Lords of Clisson by a sculptor after the Napoleonic Wars to use it as a folly.

The rebuilt church in the Italian style, as it looks completely different to any other churches we saw.

Churches
One thing that struck me when walking around Carquefou, where we stayed, and other villages we visited, was just how big the churches were compared to those in the UK. They also invariably sat at the highest point of the village and formed the centre of it too. This made finding our way around very easy as you just had to look up to reorientate yourself!

The front entrance to the church in Carquefou, which had a very nice interior too.

You get a good idea of the sheer size of this church when viewed from here.



WWII
On Google maps in advance of our visist, I noticed a street called 9th August 1944, which I imagined signifed part of the liberation of Nantes. And so it proved to be, or at least when the first American soldiers arrived in Carquefou. Below is a photo of the memorial signage and the current view of the Place St Pierre.




Memorials
Aside from street names commemorating famous people or actions etc, I did notice plenty of War memorials on all of our trips out. They ranged from quite modest ones like this, to some pretty spectacular ones in Nantes itself.

On this side it noted the widows and orphans (I think) created by WWI, not something I'd seen before.

A reminder of the other Wars fought by France over the years.

Sorry for the very blurred photo here, but this was inside the church in Suce-sur-Erdre. There was a later stone memorial erected outside too, with a WWI soldier standing guard.

Beautifully painted, including those who were never found.

Again a reminder of other Wars fought and added to later.


Buildings 
What I did notice about Nantes and its surrounding villages and towns, was that the buildings were all pretty much white, or light beige, with grey slate tiled roofs. I was expecting a bit more colour, but this generally came from the shutter and doors, with the odd exception her and there. A few reference photos for use when painting up my terrain.


An old empty house opposite the 9th August 1944 sign. Fairly typical of many we did see, as it seems the French prefer more modern and light houses or apartments, as opposed to these characterful but dark inside ones. 

Rahter like our visits to Austria, you seem any roadside shrines and crosses as you travel around. A nice and simple on here compared to some we say, many with elaborate ironwork protecting the statue inside.

Very different from the norm we saw with its exposed brickwork.

The presbytry to the local church and catholic school, showing the 'beige' used alongside the 'white'.

A bit of a sucker for signs like this!


Now I would have liked to have taken plenty more photos, but the heat and schedule prevented me from doing so, plus I wanted to take it all in rather than constantly snapping photos. Afterall, we will be visiting many more times, so there will be more opportunities in the future.

What Next?
Now the holiday season is nearly over and SWMBO returns to work in a week's time, I have plenty of ideas and some deadlines too. 
  • The Colours Wargames Show is on 6th September, so I'm looking forward to that and need to place an order with Pendraken for collection on the day. 
  • Then there is a visit to Chris Gregg's to fight the Battle of Echmuhl 1809 in mid-September. I can only make one day but it is always fun! 
  • Painting wise I need to finish some WWII kit for my Canadians in Normandy campaign, as well as some stuff for a possible Early War game.
  • The Cotswold Wargames Day is on again in mid-October, so Dave and I are pondering on what to play. As WWII is an option and something we have not done before at a show, ideas we have need honing down and a scenario firming up etc.
  • Terrain is being painted, made and planned, for use with all of the above. Something I love doing and easy to fit in as and when. But of course I do need to remember to paint figures!
So there we have it. Not quite a Keith Ross class holiday tour of Nantes, but hopefully there might have been something of interest in there for you and if so, comments always grealty appreciated.

Until next time!

TTFN.


30 comments:

  1. Yes, all beige and slate! That's what it's like in Segre where my sister lives, they've got a war memorial to some Vendee and a more recent one near where they used to live that included names of locals who died at Agincourt! Lovely photos, try and get along to Angers next time you're over, nice city, great castle! Difficult to compete with Keith!
    Best Iain

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    1. Pretty cool about the Agincourt bit Iain! I would love to go to Angers and the Saumur museum too, but whether I can persuade the others re: the latter remains to be seen. Competing with Keith: you can only come off second best;)!

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  2. Haha. That was a pretty tenuous link to the Wombles Steve! Great photos, the castle looks impressive, a shame you couldn't get inside too.
    I like all the images of the various buildings, the rebuilt town does have a very Mediterranean look to it, and the one house with exposed brick is very attractive.
    You have some good gaming coming up....I guess that order from Pendraken might include some figures for La Guerre Vendee?!

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    1. I told you it was tenous;)! The castle is impressive and damned big too. The chap had been on the Grand Tour, courtesy of Napoleon, so came back and wanted to make an Italian inspired estate, which he did. The sad part is the town of Clisson was largely destroyed in revenge for the uprising:(. I have started adding a few packs to my existing Vendee lead pile to pick up at Colours next week. As and when they might even get based, remains to be seen of course!

      BTW I saw Warlord Games are releasing some more Soviet infantry soon, which might be of interest to you... ;).

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    2. My mate Nick has those new Warlord Soviets on pre order! I may very well be tempted in due course although as you will see shortly, I may well already have an ample sufficiency of Red Army troops!

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    3. Quantity has its own quality😉! So I expect more reinforcements in due course...

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  3. There is much of great interest in your travelogue, Steve! I enjoyed the photos of castles and buildings very much. Looks like a vey enjoyable trip. Hobby activities are looking up too!

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    1. Thanks Jon:)! Frankly there is so much to see, even during the few trips we took. Hard to know what to photo and what to give a miss. Next time certainly the castle of the Ducs de Bretagne and parts of the old city walls and gatehouse, plus a lovely cathedral and so on and so forth! With it feeling more Autumnal now and September just around the corner, my mind certainly turns more towards gaming and away from the garden

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  4. Beaut travelogue Steve. Nice pick up with the book about the Vendée War. There are a heap of contemporary accounts (long out of copyright) on archive.org if you are interested.
    The Catholic church on the highest hill in the town is a feature in towns in Oz too.
    Best wishes, James

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    1. Thanks James! I have enough info I think to help me wargame the Vendee Uprising, but there was a very large 3 volume set of books in French in the shop, which must have been pretty detailed. Nice snippet of inof on the churches in Oz too, as here they seem to be somehwat randomly placed within villages.

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  5. A very enjoyable read, was in Nantes many years ago, lovely place. The Vendee Uprising is an interesting one, I have a load of figure myself sitting in the pile of shame, maybe one day! An interesting post and plenty of photos to pore over!

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    1. Thanks Donnie and my pile of shame does include two forces bought many years ago, which like so many ideas, is yet to see the light of day! Nantes is lovely and as the AirB'n'B owner rightly said, there is so much to see within a 100km radius of the city.

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  6. Some nice looking villages around Nantes, but I would be no good this time of year with the heat that our friends on the continent have been suffering for weeks.

    The tree in the castle is very eye catching, but it is one of those things that if you tried to model on the table, it might likely appear too contrived. A bit like when you see an amazing sky and think that if an artist painted it, it wouldn’t look realistic.

    Look forward to hearing you plans for (possibly) a WWII Cotswold.

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    1. The heat was just about OK and bearable, but we were drinking lots of water all the time! The villages all look great, but when you walk round them, you realise how small they were before modern expansion increased their size. The tree I imagine was part of turning the castle into a folly, but would certainly look wrong on the table, unless part of a ruined castle etc.

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  7. Really nice place. Thanks for s trip's photos!

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    1. You're welcome Michal and it is indeed a really nice place:).

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  8. Lovely photos mate and you certainly got around a bit. Sorry about the weather. Let me know next time you’re coming over and I’ll get them to turn the thermostat down a bit. lol.

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    1. Thanks Mark and I would have loved to have seen more, but we needed to pace ourselves with the weather, and of course old age too;)! Luckily we were not in a red zone, which must have been pretty unbearable. Landing back in Blighty and it was like someone had turned the AC on!

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  9. Enjoyed your post and thanks for sharing.

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  10. Lovely photos Steve. I always enjoy a ruined castle - much, much more so than “stately homes”. I like a castle to show it has been fought over.
    It sounds like you’ll be quite busy for a while - planning games, painting figures, building terrain etc. At least you’ll be busy doing something you enjoy. Good luck with all your efforts & I look forward to reading how you get on with them all.
    Cheers,
    Geoff 😊😎

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    1. Thanks Geoff! I'm not sure if this castle was slighted after the Venee Uprising or not. Wargaming related activity is certainly picking up now the weather has turned wet. Normally I hate it when it's wet, but after the very dry Summer we've had, I'm glad to see it!

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  11. Wonderful that you and Victoria are getting out and about Steve, especially just the two of you. Jane and I are off to Normandy next week. France never disappoints!

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    1. Thanks Keith and certainly nice for us to have a physical and mental break from parent carer duties. Enjoy Normandy and we're looking forward to many more return trips!

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  12. I'm a sucker for castles so loved the pictures and the Vendée material is a bonus. :-) Pity the castle was closed, though. France seems to have many little known and impressive castles - little known to non-French people anyway. I do hate museums that don't allow photography, though. :-( Thanks for the enjoyable post!

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    1. You can't beat a good castle for sure:)! Certainly along the Loire, it seems you can close your eyes, throw a stone and hit a chateau or castle with ease.

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    2. Indeed. :-) And of course it was at Nantes where Hornblower and chums, after escaping from the French and boating down the Loire, stole the Witch of Endor back, freed some British prisoners and sailed back to Blighty. Author C S Forester had sailed the Loire himself with his wife back in the late 1920s...

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    3. Nice bit of info there David:). When we were touring the castle of the Ducs de Bretagne in Nantes, there was plenty of graffitti scratched into the walls by prisoners from numerous conflicts over the years. IIRC there was one from a Polish prisoner during WWII...

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  13. Very pleasant and moving post - thank for sharing the highlights of your trip!

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